Updated: December 27, 2002


The first thing you want to do is step the mast on the trailer. Next, using
a carpenters level butted up against the shroud chainplate on the sidebar,
level the boat. Undo your main halyard and attach a 5lbs weight. Measure the
distance from the halyard to the bottom of the mast cutout for the mainsail.
A good ball park number will range between 45”- 57” depending on your body
weight. Lighter skippers will favor the larger number (larger distance) and
heavier skippers will favor the smaller numbers (less distance). Since I
weigh 160lbs, I opt for a 55” mast rake.


I normally carry a loose rig when not trapezing. This is adjusted by
grabbing the leeward shroud with your hand and turning it to 120 degrees. As
the breeze freshens, I tighten the rig to keep the leeward hull from
depressing too much. This is very important to remember in choppy water.
While trapezing, adjust the shroud tension to 45 degrees using the same
method as above. This will keep the rig powered up and not dump you in the
water in lulls. The mast raker line should ONLY be used downwind to help
keep the rigging from banging around too much.


There are a lot of different thoughts on this area. I will address what has
worked for me.
Draft position: 45%
Camber: 16%
Batten Tapers: Bottom 3= non-tapered Top 3= taper and soft

A good way to set up the draft is to raise the sail with some batten tension
and downhaul applied to eliminate the wrinkles. Take the tail of the main
halyard and run it down the sail starting at the aft end of the headboard to
the middle of the boom. The maximum draft should be at this line
intersecting the sail. You will probably have to use a belt sander to taper
and soften the top 3 battens to achieve the draft/camber point.

I tension the battens starting from the bottom and working to the top. This
is done with the sail laying on the trampoline.

#6 (Bottom): Almost standing up
#5: Barely standing up
#4: Standing up
#3: Standing up
#2: Barely standing up
#1: Almost standing up

For choppy water, apply a little more tension for power!


There is really only one rule of thumb; wrinkles out in all but very windy
conditions. Downhaul in windy conditions to bend the mast and release the


I tension this as hard as I can and cleat and forget it! Since it is not a
loose-footed sail, the main does not benefit by releasing it.


Upwind: 5”- 6” out from center allows the boat to be footed with a great
deal of speed if you have the sail set up as above. When trapezing, only let
the traveler out 3”. Reaches will be out to the hiking strap and deep
reaches/downwind will be all the way at the end of the track.


This one always causes debate! Start off with the rudders in the locked down
position. Measure down the blade 12” from the bottom of the bottom casting.
Make a line 2” perpendicular to the 12” point. Using a very thin line and
starting at the top of the rudder pin, align the line with the rudder pin
and check where the line intersects the perpendicular line on the rudder.
Optimally, you should have 1 5/8” to 1 3/4” for a measurement. To achieve
the 1 ¾” number, you might have to re-drill the front hole on the rudder or
file away at the front of the rudder where it hits the casting.

Rudder toe in should be 1/8” with the rudders in the locked down position
again measured from the 12” down point.

Good Luck!!

Bob Curry
1984 World Champion
1980, 1985, 1986, 1987 US National Champion
1983, 1987 US TURBO National champion

Master UniRig Sailor